springtime in paris -- day 3

We began our 3rd day in Paris by visiting Notre Dame.  And as I mentioned in an earlier post -- it was simply breathtaking.

The architecture and grandeur of the outside, the intricacies and beauty of the inside, the gargoyles overlooking the square and just the overall feeling of reverence that exists.

All of it was absolutely stunning.

After Notre Dame, we journeyed to the Catacombs de Paris -- a place we'd heard was not nearly as popular with tourists -- but still well worth a visit.

And yes it was.  

Apparently in the 17th Century -- the cemetaries of Paris were overcrowded and people who lived in close proximity to them were constantly getting sick.  The problem persisted for a 100 years before a solution was finally agreed upon - dig up the corpses and transport them to a series of underground catacombs.

So 200 feet beneath the city there exists a seemingly neverending maze of tunnels and caverns that you can walk through -- literally surrounded on all sides by bones, skulls and decayed bodies.

It really is unlike anything else I've ever seen.

You can reach out your hand and literally touch the skulls and bones as you walk along.  

And while no one knows exactly how many bodies are stored down there -- estimates are the number is close to 6 million.

6 million people!!!

Not for the faint of heart -- but seriously amazing!

After returning up from the underground we went to Dans le Noir for lunch and while it may seem odd that a lunch would be one of the most memorable moments of the trip -- it was.

The theme of the restaurant is "the blind feeding the blind" and just like the name would have you believe -- everything is done in the dark.  The wait staff are all legally blind and as they take your hand and guide you to your table -- you pass through 2 curtains and suddenly you are engulfed in darkness.

Watches, cellphones and anything else that would give light is required to be left at the front desk.

Once seated at a table, the wait staff asks if you are allergic to anything.  They leave and return with the first course and your drinks.  They then invite you to enjoy.

And you use whatever means necessary -- silverware, fingers, hands, etc to feel the food on your plate and then help and hope it finds its way to your mouth.

It really was one of the most amazing experiences I have ever had.  For the first 5 minutes, I could feel my eyes trying to adjust to the darkness, but it really is so complete that they can't.  There is no difference between having your eyes closed and having them open.  It is pitch black.  In every sense of the word.

During the meal Tasha and I would talk and try and figure out what exactly it was we were eating (they show you pictures of the meal at the end, and it definitely was a lot different from what we had thought).

It truly seemed that our other senses (taste, touch, sound) were amplified considerably with our not being able to see.

As we ate -- plates and glasses were broken on a table close by.  And the plates and glass were cleaned up by the wait staff.  All of them blind.

Amazing.

I thought we were inside for maybe 40-45 minutes, by the time we finished the 3 courses.

But when our waiter escorted us back out to the front lobby and we saw what time it was -- we were shocked to see we had been inside for almost 2 and a half hours!

It truly was a once-in-a lifetime experience and I would say it is a must for anyone visiting Paris.

Amazing.

When we went back outside, both Tash and I just looked at each other and couldn't help but feeling an overwhelming sense of gratitude.  To be able to look at and see each other.

To be able to see the blue sky and the cobblestone roads.  To be able to use the gift of sight.

It definitely hammered home how much of a gift it truly is.

Absolutely amazing.

After lunch we decided we'd hit up one last museum before calling it a day -- and so we spent a few hours in the Musee de'Orsay -- a former trainstation that has been transformed into a spectacular art gallery.

Highlights included: Whistlers Mother (a picture that ever since I was a little child has always reminded me of my Grandparents on my mothers side and brought a huge wave of nostalgia to see in person) and a slew of works by Van Gough.

We than worked our way back to where we began -- Notre Dame, but first stopped to enjoy some Parisian crepes one last time.  Delicious!

It really could not have been a more perfect trip.  Celebrating my birthday with the lady I love in one of the most romantic cities in the world.  What more could I ask for?

springtime in paris -- day 2

Day 2 began with us waking up bright and shiny and heading straight down to the Louvre.

Where we then spent the vast majority of it (8 hours+) wandering the halls, having our jaws drop to the floor (on multiple occasions) and just trying to soak in as much as we could of the art, architecture and surroundings.

I've always enjoyed museums -- one of my favorite things about DC is the access to the Smithsonians, all of which are amazing -- but this place was truly unlike anything else I have ever seen.

It's absolutely humongous!  

We spent an entire working day inside and I still feel like we weren't able to take it all in. However the wings that we did see and the art that we were able to enjoy -- produced more than enough "wow" moments.

Truly unbelievable.

Highlights of course included the Big 3 -- The Venus de Milo, Winged Victory (which is where Nike received inspiration for their swish logo) and The Mona Lisa.

But there was plenty of other amazing pieces we both loved -- the whole Leonardo DaVinci wall, the inverted pyramid and the murals, the murals, the murals!!!  The whole experience was absolutely phenomenal and inspiring.

After the Louvre - we enjoyed the sights of the city from atop the Sacre Coeur Basilica, the highest point of the city and then walked down and enjoyed the shops and sounds on our way to see The Moulin Rouge.  

And finally we ended our second day be taking in the sunset atop of the Arc de Triumph.

An absolutely breathtaking ending to a breathtaking day.  

springtime in paris -- day 1

Could we have received a more amazing and enchanting welcome to the city of Paris?

Me thinks not.

After touching down in France early Wednesday morning - we boarded the metro and set off for the 45 minute ride to downtown Paris.  Within 5 minutes of our departure -- the man seen in the picture behind Tasha boarded the train and proceeded to sing and through the magic of his accordian provide us with an authentic and absolutely beautiful Parisian soundtrack.

A half an hour into our trip -- and I'm already sold!

After dropping off our luggage - our first stop was The Eiffel Tower.  And I kid you not, when we came around the corner from the metro we exited and suddenly there it was towering over us -- I got goobsebumps all over and just stood there in awe.

I really cannot describe how absolutely amazing it is.  And massive.  And majestic.

The term larger than life seems the best way to explain.

I knew it was going to be big.  And I knew it was going to be beautiful.  But I had no idea how absolutely stunning it would be.  To give an idea -- until the Empire State building was built in the early 1900's -- this was the tallest building in the world.  And standing in its shadows you appreciate that.

And unlike the Empire State building -- there are no other buildings or obstacles to compete with your attention.  It's there and it's all that is there.  Just blue sky and the spire jutting straight on up to the heavens.

Gorgeous.

Views from the top...

After the tower we made a pit-stop at the Hotel de Ville -- where they used to hold hangings, burnings and other forms of execution during the 17th Century...

as well as stopped at the Dome Church -- where Napolean is entombed... gorgeous!

and than walked through the courtyard of the Hotel Invalides... enormous!

Than to finish off we headed over to the Pompidou Center -- Paris's museum of modern art.  The designers took an inside-out approach, so all of what you'd normally find on the inside of a building (water and air ducts, ventiallation shafts, escalators, elevators and massive steel support struts) are all on the outside.

Aside from making it quite a sight to behold -- it also makes the inside seem even more wide open, airy and spacious.  And while modern art is definitely not my favorite of all the types of art we saw on the trip -- it was still very, very cool.  Inside and out.

The metro system is pretty extensive (and I would also say... umm confusing) -- but Tash was able to keep us on track pretty much the whole day and even when we did get turned around and had to ask for help -- how can you get too bothered when you finally find the right metro line and the entrance looks as cool as this!

Day 1 in Paris -- simply splendid!

Aside from the highlights already mentioned above -- I also fell completely head-over-heels in love with crepes!  I had been introduced to crepes before -- but something about watching a banana and nutella or hum, cheese and egg crepe being made before your very eyes by a street vendor on a cobblestone street in the heart of Paris -- made my appreciation for their deliciousness grow by leaps and bounds.

Loved it all!

paris, je t'aime!

So I know it's been a little while since an entry has been posted (much of that delay due to the fact that we were without internet for a good couple of weeks -- no fun indeed), and I know there is a lot of ground to cover and details to share about our new living quarters, how we are adjusting, things we continue to fall in love with about Germany and things we miss from the hotel that was our home for two months... and I promise all of that be covered. 

But first I have to share my newfound love for the city of Paris!  (and I may have to break it down day-by-day-by-day -- because there is so much to love!)

After the past four days I think it very well could be one of the absolute most fantastic cities I have ever visited in my entire life!  Oh my goodness!  I loved it so much!

For my birthday this year (the big 2-8!  Yikes.), Tasha planned a little get-away to Paris and I really can't get over how absolutely amazing it was!

I don't think my words or pictures will do the city justice -- but over the next few blog entries I will try. 

There have only been a handful of times in my life, where I have literally been speechless.  Where I am so absolutely stunned by a view, an event or experience that words escape me.  That happened twice on this trip.  

Seeing the Eiffel Tower for the first time and sitting inside Notre Dame cathedral.

Maybe it's because Paris wasn't near the top of my list of cities I really wanted to visit while here in Europe -- for whatever reason I was never incredibly attracted to it.  I was always more enchanted and intrigued by other places like Rome, London, Scotland and Greece.  And maybe that is partly why Paris hit me so hard.  But man - it knocked my socks off.  Before we left - Tash told me it was one of here favorite cities in the world, and after spending a few days in it -- I concur.  

The sights (more pictures to follow), the vibe and life of the city, the bakeries (we had what I consider hands-down some of the best desserts my taste buds have ever been treated too!), the museums, the art and the history!  From the moment we touched down on Wednesday until we dragged our weary bones to the airport 4 days later -- it was just a feast of amazingness.

Je t'aime paris!

the continuing house hunt, my first european flea market and our 6 month anniversary

So yes, nearly a month and half into our stay in Munich and we are still looking for a house.

Truth be told - it has been a bit more of a challenge than either of us had really expected going into it.  I think we both assumed it would be different from what we were used to in the states... but man - it has been REALLY different.

So far we've submitted 3 different applications on 3 different apartments and have been declined - yes, 3 separate times. 

The reasons?

Our age.

Our nationality.

And the length of our stay.

Really.  

Where are you ACLU?

Now I can understand a landlord wanting to be picky and wanting to have the tenants they feel are best for their home.  But... really?

Staying here 3 years isn't long enough?

The fact that we are young is a reason to not let us rent your flat?

And because we are Americans you're going to say no?  

Alas - I digress.

We are still looking and I'm confident something will turn up.

Hopefully.

I also had my first flea market experience this week -- Un. Real.

Top finds:

- A coin for 1772.  A coin that is older than the United States of America!  1772!

- An original, first-edition book by Victor Hugo -- Lettres a la Fiancee.  

- And a German occupation coin, marking the Nazi occupation of Poland.

And lastly - this past week Tash and I celebrated our 6th month anniversary.  I honestly can't believe we've been married a half a year!  The time has absolutely flown by -- and I could not be happier!  I truly do feel like the luckiest man in the world.  I and am so grateful for Tasha and so excited about what our future holds.

I'll repost some pictures from our wedding here -- and end with one of my anniversary gifts:  after 7 months without visiting a hair-cutting establishment -- I decided the time had come to return back from the land of Halpert.  So long long-hair.  At least for now.

              

residenzmusem - thoughts and pictures

I have never in my life seen anything like what I saw yesterday

As we walked through the Residenzmuseum for more than 4-hours - a handful of thoughts kept running through my head.  Among them were:

- How amazingly young of a country America truly is.  As we saw murals that had been around since the 15th century and walked through gates and courtyards that had been constructed in the 1300's - my mind was repeatedly drawn to the fact that the United States of America is but a baby on the global timeline of existence.  Quite humbling.

- How tragic that so much art and history was lost during the second World War.  In various places throughout the museum - there were would be signs describing what had once been housed in such and such a location, but was destroyed due to the bombing of World War II.  Of course that pales in comparison to the loss and destruction of life - on all sides - but it really hit me  how much of an impact the War continues to have, how much has been forever lost and made me wonder "what if..."

- And lastly - how magical of a place Germany really is.  I had a similar experience the first time I saw Times Square in New York and to be honest - I still have it almost everytime we go to downtown DC .  But there just seems to be such a feeling of "magic" that exists everywhere we go here.  I'm sure part of that is because it is my first time having the chance to really experience Europe and I'm sure it will continue as we visit more and more places -- but I really do feel like a kid again.  Like everywhere we go is somehow larger than life.  And I just want to drink it all in -- I love it!

Also I know I mentioned this with the last pictures posted and I'm afraid it is going to be the truth from here on out -- but the pictures can not even begin to do the beauty, majesty and awesomeness of these places justice.  I will do my best to describe what we felt and the pictures will do their best to capture that -- but there is simply nothing like walking the streets, smelling the smells and taking in all the images -- in person.

So with that - why doesn't everyone get their planning caps on, figure out when you can come visit us and let's go experience these places together!

The Residenz:  Tash gearing up for the tour of the Residenz which housed Bavarian royalty for hundreds of years is considered one of Europes finest palaces.  

The ceiling of the Antiquarium, built from 1568 to 1571 - it is the largest and most lavish Renaissance interior north of the Alps.

The Kaisersall or Emperor's Hall: This was the main gathering place for balls, dinners and banquets and as we sat there -- you could just close your eyes and imagine the people traveling from miles around in their horse drawn carriages, coming up the stairs in their big lavish dresses and dancing and socializing in the massive, beautiful room.

The Relic Room:  Hands down the most fascinating part of the tour for us.  This room (which sits behind a steel door that is easily 2 feet thick) houses a collection of some 60-something relics.  According to the tour -- the Catholic Church places more value on relics than on gold, silver or fine stones.  Among the saints bones held here are John the Baptist and John the Baptist mothers skulls...

As well as actual mummified babies from the time when Herod commanded that all the babies be put to death at the time of Christs' birth!  In the casing below - you could actually see the baby's hands, feet and toes.

Both Tash and I just looked at each other - eyes as big as saucers - wondering if we had really heard what we had just heard.  Absolutely fascinating.

The Reiche Kapelle or the Ornate Chapel:  Dedicated in 1607 as the private place of worship for Duke Maximillian, it was in here that he kept his relics (seen above), which made this room the spiritual centre of the entire Residenz.

As if I needed another reminder that Lost has infiltrated every aspect of my life and continues to blow me away with it's brilliance -- when we rounded the corner of one of the art galleries and my eyes made contact with this painting of Thomas the Apostle (which was featured in last weeks episode) - I cannot even begin to explain how absolutely stunned I was.  I honestly thought my heart was going to beat out of my chest!  "We're all convinced sooner or later..."

The Steinzimmer or Stone Rooms:  In the 17th Century - the rooms were considered the most important rooms of the entire Residenz as it was here that the Roman Emperor and his family stayed when they came to visit Munich.  Interestingly, the rooms were never used otherwise.

The Ahnengalerie or Ancestral Gallery:  Features over 100 portraits of members of the Royal family.  And two striking members of the not-quite-so-Royal family.

The Cuvilles-Theater: Breath-taking.  The beauty of this Opera house literally took my breath away as we walked in.  So unbelievably gorgeous! 

munich week 2 -- in pictures

St. Michael's Church or Michaelskirche:  Stunning.  Absolutely stunning.  

Construction began in 1585 and was completed in 1597 making it the first Jesuit church in Northern Europe.

Also of interest - the absolutely massive vaulting over the nave (or for those who need a dictionary like I did to understand just what that means -- it's the central area of the church as you're looking towards the high altar) is the second largest in the world, after St. Peter's Basilica in Rome.  

The pictures don't even begin to do it justice.  

Awe-inspiring.

Residenzmuseum: These massive doors were guarding the courtyard of the courtyard of the courtyard of what used to be the King's Palace.  We're planning on going back this weekend and diving into the actual buildings, as all we saw was the very outskirts.

The Column of St. Mary or Mariensaule:  Sits in the center of Marienplatz - Munich's city center.  Was built in 1638 to celebrate the end of the Swedish invasion.

And lastly the King of American Burgers alongside one of Munich's favorite beers.